New Zealand, a land sculpted by nature’s grandeur, had always been a dream destination. Like many, I was drawn by the allure of its breathtaking landscapes, images of which are splashed across Instagram and brought to life in cinematic masterpieces. I envisioned a land of unparalleled beauty even before I boarded the flight from the UK.
However, stepping onto New Zealand soil was an awakening. Reality surpassed even the most idealized images. The vibrant greenery surrounding Auckland upon arrival was the first sign – a testament to the country’s unspoiled nature. Exploring the North Island revealed vast, untamed beaches and ancient forests that left me breathless. Hiking the volcanic ridges of Mt Tarawera and discovering secluded, steaming creeks near Rotorua created memories I knew would be etched in my mind forever.
Image source: Contiki. The stunning natural beauty of New Zealand, from lush green landscapes to dramatic volcanic terrains, sets the stage for understanding the deep connection Maori people have with their land, a central theme in the haka dance.
Yet, amidst these natural wonders, it was the profound cultural encounters that truly resonated.
My journey to New Zealand with Contiki’s Travel Project took an unexpected turn into the heart of Māori culture. The focus of my trip became tracing the origins and evolution of The Haka Dance, a powerful Māori tradition that has achieved global recognition, largely thanks to its iconic association with the All Blacks, New Zealand’s national rugby team.
The haka’s visceral energy has captivated audiences worldwide. Viral videos, like the one showcasing a haka that moved a bride to tears, underscore its emotional impact. There’s an undeniable magnetism to the haka – it embodies raw, unfiltered passion, an intense presence in the moment, and a profound cultural significance that transcends language barriers. Even without prior knowledge of Māori culture, the haka evokes a deep, visceral feeling.
Image source: Ginny Copestake. The volcanic landscape of Mt Tarawera, similar to regions where the haka originated, highlights the connection between the dance and the powerful natural environment of New Zealand.
One of the first revelations was that the haka dance isn’t monolithic. Numerous variations exist, each unique and often differing between tribal regions. The ‘Ka Mate’ haka, famously performed by the All Blacks, is perhaps the most globally recognized, but it merely scratches the surface of this rich tradition.
The haka dance serves diverse purposes – from welcoming honored guests and issuing challenges to narrating stories, expressing respect, or conveying deep affection. However, at its core, every haka embodies three fundamental pillars: a deep-seated relationship with the land, a profound respect for ancestors, and a powerful sense of connection. These elements are not only integral to the haka dance but also represent cornerstones of Māoridom itself.
Image source: Contiki. A group performing the haka, showcasing the unity and synchronized movements that are characteristic of the dance. This image represents the ‘connection’ aspect of the haka, highlighting the shared energy and purpose of the performers.
The Māori perspective on land stewardship was particularly enlightening. Unlike Western concepts of land ownership, Māori see themselves as ‘kaitiaki’ – guardians responsible for nurturing the land, ensuring its health and vitality for future generations. Land is divided into tribal areas, but the relationship is one of custodianship rather than possession, reflecting a deep respect for Ranginui (sky father) and Papatūānuku (earth mother).
This profound ‘whenua’, or connection to the land, is woven into the haka dance through both words and movement. The forceful stamping of feet during a haka symbolizes Papatūānuku’s heartbeat. Each stamp is not just a physical action but a conscious connection to the earth’s energy. Performers draw strength and power from the land, feeling its presence rather than simply observing it.
This deep respect for nature permeates every aspect of Māori life. Encounters with Māori individuals revealed an intimate knowledge of their environment – understanding weather patterns, recognizing bird calls, and knowing the medicinal properties of local plants. Jamie Cook of the Ngāti Whātua-o-Ōrakei iwi, exemplified this connection. He guided me through a remarkable 48-hectare regeneration project at Bastion Point in Auckland. Over fifteen years, this community-led initiative has reintroduced over 200,000 native and edible trees, aiming to restore the land to its pre-1800s state and revitalize native birdlife. Their commitment to sustainability is evident in their zero-pesticide approach, prioritizing the health of the surrounding waterways and ocean.
Image source: Contiki. The majestic Tane Mahuta tree, a symbol of the ancient forests of New Zealand and their spiritual significance in Maori culture. This image connects to the ‘land’ element of the haka, emphasizing the reverence for nature.
Ancestry forms another crucial pillar of the haka dance. While my own family history traces back only a few generations, Māori can often trace their lineage back to the specific waka (canoe) that brought their ancestors to New Zealand. Those who have passed on are deeply revered, and this respect for lineage is instrumental in preserving cherished Māori traditions in contemporary life.
Storytelling, in particular, has been a cornerstone of Māori culture, ensuring the continuity of knowledge and traditions across generations. Prior to European settlement, the Māori language was primarily oral. Knowledge was transmitted through captivating stories, songs, dances, and intricate carvings. These traditions remain vital today, serving as conduits for passing down ancestral wisdom to younger generations.
Image source: Contiki. A solitary performer engaging in the haka within a forest setting, highlighting the storytelling aspect of the dance and its connection to ancestral lands and narratives.
The haka dance itself is a powerful form of storytelling. Each performance pays homage to ancestors. Māori children are immersed in the haka from a young age, often learning the movements and chants as soon as they can walk. It’s a testament to the enduring power of this tradition that even young children grasp the gravity of the haka, understanding the words they speak and their connection to their heritage.
Finally, connection – the third essential element – binds everything together. Connection isn’t just a component of Māori culture; it is Māori culture. It’s the interwoven threads of connection to the land, to the past, and to the community. It’s tapping into the emotional, spiritual, and cultural essence of Māoridom, recognizing the inherent significance in all things.
Whether performed by the formidable All Blacks, young schoolchildren, or respected iwi leaders, the haka dance is never an isolated act. Performers are deeply focused, yet simultaneously attuned to the collective energy of those around them, united by an unseen force known as ‘ihi’. ‘Ihi’ is a unique adrenaline-like energy generated during the haka, palpable and almost tangible. It’s as if the haka transports performers to another realm, fueling them with a potent blend of passion, raw emotion, honesty, and profound respect. Witnessing numerous haka performances throughout my journey, I was consistently moved by its power, each performance resonating deeply.
Image source:Contiki
So, why does the haka dance remain relevant today? Because Māori culture remains not just relevant, but the very cultural backbone and vibrant heart of New Zealand. I arrived in New Zealand seeking an experience, but I departed with a deeper understanding of the haka dance, and a profound appreciation for its enduring legacy. While the battles of the past may be over, the haka dance lives on, a timeless embodiment of a culture that captivates the hearts of all who visit Aotearoa, the land of the long white cloud.
I travelled to New Zealand on assignment with The Travel Project, and in partnership with Tourism New Zealand.
Special thanks for involvement in this project go to Beez Nga Rini Te Waati, Bill Mathews, Te Oranga Witehira, Inia Maxwell, and all others featured or associated in the creation and execution of this project.
