New Zealand. The name itself conjures images of breathtaking landscapes, pristine nature, and a land of adventure. Like many, the allure of New Zealand’s natural beauty, amplified by stunning visuals online and in films, had long placed it at the top of my travel wish list. I imagined vast green spaces and untouched wilderness, a paradise waiting to be explored.
Stepping off the plane in Auckland, the reality exceeded even the highest expectations. The overwhelming greenness and unspoiled environment were immediately striking. Travelling through the North Island, I was captivated by expansive, wild beaches and ancient forests that seemed to breathe with history. Hiking the volcanic ridges of Mt Tarawera and discovering secluded, geothermal creeks near Rotorua were unforgettable experiences, moments etched into my memory.
Yet, amidst these incredible natural wonders, it was the profound cultural encounters that resonated most deeply during my time in New Zealand. My journey with Contiki’s Travel Project focused on exploring the roots of haka – the Māori War Dance. This powerful performance, now globally recognized through the iconic displays of the All Blacks, New Zealand’s national rugby team, became the unexpected heart of my New Zealand adventure.
The internet is filled with captivating haka videos. The viral sensation of a haka performed at a wedding, moving the bride to tears, exemplifies its emotional power. There’s an undeniable force to haka that transcends language and cultural barriers. It’s raw passion, complete presence in the moment, and a deep well of cultural significance. Even without prior knowledge of Māori culture, haka evokes a visceral understanding and feeling.
It’s important to understand that “haka” isn’t a singular, monolithic entity. In reality, countless variations exist, each unique to different tribal regions and carrying its own specific meaning and history. While ‘Ka Mate,’ the haka performed by the All Blacks, is globally recognized, it’s just one facet of a rich and diverse tradition.
Haka serves many purposes – welcoming honored guests, issuing challenges, narrating stories, expressing respect, or conveying love and grief. However, at its core, every haka embodies three fundamental elements deeply embedded within Māori culture: a profound relationship with the land, a strong connection to ancestors, and a powerful sense of community. These pillars are not only central to haka but are foundational to Māoridom itself.
The Māori perspective on land stewardship was a completely new concept to me. They don’t perceive land as something to be owned in a conventional sense. Tribal territories define areas of responsibility, but rather than “owners,” Māori see themselves as guardians, or ‘kaitiaki.’ Their role is to protect and nurture the land, ensuring its health and vitality for future generations, honoring Ranginui (sky father) and Papatūānuku (earth mother).
This deep ‘whenua,’ or connection to the land, is powerfully expressed in haka, not only through spoken words but also through physical movements. The forceful stamping of feet symbolizes Papatūānuku’s heartbeat, each stamp resonating with the earth’s vital energy. Performers draw strength and connection from the land, feeling its presence rather than simply observing it.
This profound respect for nature permeated every interaction I had with Māori people. They possess an intimate knowledge of their environment – understanding weather patterns, recognizing bird calls, and knowing the medicinal properties of plants. Jamie Cook of the Ngāti Whātua-o-Ōrakei iwi, exemplified this connection. He guided me through a remarkable regeneration project spanning 48 hectares at Bastion Point in Auckland. Over fifteen years, this initiative has seen the planting of 200,000 native and edible trees, revitalizing the land to its state in the late 1800s and reintroducing native birdlife. Sustainability is paramount; everything is reused or composted, and crucially, the community has achieved this ecological restoration without pesticides, safeguarding the surrounding waterways and ocean.
Ancestry and lineage are equally vital components of haka. While my own family history extends back a few generations, Māori trace their ancestry to the specific waka (canoe) their ancestors arrived in New Zealand on centuries ago. Those who have passed on hold a significant place in Māori culture, and this deep respect for ancestry is what has preserved cherished traditions, ensuring they remain integral to contemporary Māori life.
Storytelling, in particular, has endured as a powerful tradition, safeguarding cultural knowledge through generations. Before European settlers, the Māori language was unwritten, so knowledge was transmitted orally through stories, songs, dances, and intricate carvings. These traditions continue to thrive, passing on invaluable knowledge and narratives to younger generations today.
Haka functions similarly as a form of living storytelling. Each performance pays homage to ancestors, and Māori children learn haka from a very young age, almost as soon as they can walk. Crucially, the significance of haka is not lost on these young performers. They understand the words they speak and the deep historical and cultural roots they represent.
Finally, connection – the third essential element that binds haka together. Connection isn’t just a part of Māori culture; it is Māori culture. It encompasses connection to the land, to the past, and to the community. It’s tapping into the emotional, spiritual, and cultural significance of Māoridom, recognizing the inherent meaning in all things.
Whether performed by the All Blacks, young children, or iwi leaders, haka is never an isolated act. Performers are intensely focused, yet simultaneously connected to those around them, united by an unseen energy force known as ‘ihi.’ This ‘ihi’ is a type of adrenaline, a shared energy generated during the haka. Experiencing it firsthand, you can almost feel its tangible presence. It’s as if haka transports performers to another realm, fueling them with a potent mix of passion, honesty, and profound emotion. Throughout my trip, I witnessed numerous haka performances, and each time, the impact remained undiminished. Each time, I felt its power deeply.
So, why does haka remain relevant today? Because Māori culture remains relevant, not just relevant, but the very cultural backbone and beating heart of New Zealand. I travelled to New Zealand seeking adventure and natural beauty, but I left with a deeper understanding of haka and its enduring significance. The historical battles may be over, but haka lives on, a timeless and powerful expression of a culture that profoundly touches the heart of every visitor to Aotearoa, the land of the long white cloud.
I travelled to New Zealand on assignment with The Travel Project, and in partnership with Tourism New Zealand.
Special thanks for involvement in this project go to Beez Nga Rini Te Waati, Bill Mathews, Te Oranga Witehira, Inia Maxwell, and all others featured or associated in the creation and execution of this project.
