Vineyard owner Gregg Lewis examines the Cabernet Franc vines at Lewis Vineyards, source of Dancing Fox Winery’s acclaimed wines.
For those in the know around Lodi, California, The Dancing Fox has been a beloved local institution, constantly evolving and improving. Since its inception in 2009, nestled in a beautifully restored century-old building on Downtown Lodi’s charming School Street, it quickly became the go-to spot for exceptional coffee, delectable breakfasts and lunches, and the irresistible aroma of artisan, wood-fired bread. This family-run establishment, spearheaded by Gregg and Colleen Lewis and their sons, has woven itself into the fabric of the Lodi community.
However, beyond the bustling restaurant and bakery, lies another significant chapter in the Dancing Fox story: the Lewis family’s decades-long dedication to their hilltop vineyard. Since 1985, just outside Clements, California, they have poured tireless effort into cultivating their land. Gregg Lewis initially sought refuge from the hectic pace of Southern California’s Orange County in 1980, yearning for a tranquil life where he could practice psychology. Life took a turn when he met Colleen, and together they embraced a new venture, purchasing a 50-acre property in the Clements Hills-Lodi AVA. While they found the peaceful setting they desired to raise their family, they also embarked on the demanding journey of grape farming.
The Dancing Fox Restaurant, Winery, and Brewery, a popular destination in the heart of Lodi, California.
Lewis Vineyards, characterized by rolling hills ranging from 90 to 120 feet in elevation, was initially planted in the late 1970s with varieties like Chenin Blanc. As market demands shifted, the Lewises proactively adapted, grafting and replanting with sought-after grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. They also embraced emerging varietals like Tempranillo, Grenache, and Sangiovese. Today, their vineyard showcases a diverse selection of 12 cultivars, including recent additions of Roussanne and Marsanne, specifically planted to meet the requests of a prestigious Napa Valley winery.
Entrance sign to Lewis Vineyards, highlighting its role as a Lodi Rules certified sustainable vineyard.
Like many Lodi grape growers, the Lewises sell a significant portion of their harvest – all LODI RULES for Sustainable Winegrowing certified – to a variety of wineries, both large and boutique. However, a portion was always reserved for their own winemaking aspirations. In the early days, winemaking was a hands-on family affair in their old barn, with their sons even participating in grape stomping and operating a traditional wooden wine press. This passion project organically evolved into Dancing Fox Winery, establishing its tasting room alongside the popular restaurant and bakery in 2009.
Agricultural scene at Lewis Vineyards in Lodi’s Clements Hills, showcasing the vineyard’s commitment to quality grape production.
Expanding beyond their School Street location, the Lewises acquired and meticulously renovated Downtown Lodi’s historic Ice House. Originally built in the 1880s as livery stables, the Ice House now accommodates their growing winemaking operations and barrel aging facilities. Furthermore, it houses state-of-the-art brewing tanks for their burgeoning brewery and a versatile bottling line for wines, beers, and even spirits. At their School Street location, a pot still is utilized for The Dancing Fox’s spirits production, encompassing everything from brandies to vodkas and gins. Ambitious expansion plans for the School Street site have been in motion for several years, temporarily paused due to recent global events.
Lodi’s historic Ice House building, repurposed as the production center for Dancing Fox Winery and Brewery.
While The Dancing Fox has released a diverse portfolio of wines and blends, including unique cherry wines, their Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon have truly emerged as standouts. These “Cabernet” grapes thrive in the distinctive reddish blend of clay, sand, gravel, and cobblestone soil found in the rolling hills of Lewis Vineyards, imparting exceptional character to the wines.
Award-winning bottles of Dancing Fox Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, showcasing the winery’s commitment to quality.
The accolades speak for themselves. The 2017 The Dancing Fox Lewis Vineyards Lodi Cabernet Franc ($39) was honored with a double-gold medal at the prestigious 2021 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition – a unanimous decision by the judging panel at what is considered the largest competition of American wines worldwide. This Cabernet Franc is celebrated for its refined texture, vibrant red berry notes, refreshing acidity, subtle hints of French oak spice (achieved through 50% new barrel aging), and a smooth, well-structured tannin profile characteristic of the varietal.
Dancing Fox winemaker Gregg Lewis in the Ice House barrel room, overseeing the aging process of his wines.
Adding to the acclaim, the 2017 Cinnabar Winery Lodi Cabernet Franc ($44), crafted from Lewis Vineyards grapes, received a “Best of Class” gold medal at the same San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition, recognized as the finest Cabernet Franc in the esteemed $40-and-up category. Sharing the same grape source and supple texture as The Dancing Fox’s 2017 Cabernet Franc, the Cinnabar offering exhibits a slightly richer and deeper profile, with nuances of both black and red fruits and enhanced oak spice. Notably, both wines are devoid of the green, herbaceous undertones sometimes associated with Cabernet Franc, a testament to the exceptional terroir of Clements Hills-Lodi for this varietal. The San Francisco Chronicle judges were captivated by the Cinnabar’s harmonious balance and expressive, fruit-forward character.
Cinnabar Winery Lodi Cabernet Franc bottle, an award-winning wine made with Dancing Fox’s Lewis Vineyards grapes.
Gregg Lewis remarks, “Cinnabar winemaker George Troquato has been a valuable mentor, generously sharing his winemaking expertise over the years. Cinnabar Winery, based in the Santa Cruz Mountains, has been a long-standing and valued client, purchasing grapes from us since the early 1990s.”
If Gregg Lewis harbors a particular fondness for any grape, it is undoubtedly Cabernet Sauvignon. “Our finest Cabernet Sauvignon,” Lewis explains, “likely originates from a 5-acre block planted a decade ago. Similar to our Cabernet Franc, clonal selection has been crucial – we chose two of the most exceptional clones available. In the vineyard, we implement meticulous practices to ensure superior quality, including diligent leaf removal and fruit thinning to maintain a crop yield of 3 to 4 tons per acre. This dedication translates to premium prices for our fruit.”
Modern brewing tanks and bottling equipment at Dancing Fox Winery & Brewery, showcasing their expanded beverage production capabilities.
The 2017 The Dancing Fox Lewis Vineyards Lodi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($48) lives up to its promise, delivering a concentrated blackcurrant and berry aroma with remarkable intensity. However, rather than being heavy or excessively oaky, it presents an elegant finesse and exceptional balance, despite the firm tannins characteristic of the varietal – sensory attributes that are distinctly “Lodi.”
“I must admit to a weakness for Cabernet Sauvignon paired with a perfectly cooked steak,” Gregg Lewis confesses, “although as we age, steak isn’t always recommended for our diet. I rationalize that indulging once or twice a month won’t hurt!”
French oak barrels aging the 2019 Dancing Fox Cabernet Franc, highlighting the winery’s traditional winemaking practices.
