Dancing Fox Winery owner Gregg Lewis amidst his Lewis Vineyards Cabernet Franc vines in Lodi’s Clements Hills, showcasing award-winning viticulture.
For those in the know around Lodi, California, Dancing Fox Winery has been a captivating story of growth and dedication. Starting as a beloved restaurant and bakery, it quickly became a downtown Lodi staple, renowned for its artisanal breads and inviting café atmosphere. Since its inception in 2009 within a beautifully restored century-old building on School Street, Dancing Fox has been a true family venture, driven by the passion of Gregg and Colleen Lewis and their sons.
However, beyond the bustling restaurant, the Lewis family has quietly cultivated another endeavor: their home vineyard nestled in the Clements Hills of Lodi since 1985. Gregg Lewis initially sought refuge from the fast-paced life of Southern California’s Orange County in 1980, seeking tranquility and a return to his psychology practice. Life took a delightful turn when he met Colleen, and together they embraced a new chapter, purchasing a 50-acre property in the Clements Hills-Lodi AVA. While the idyllic setting offered a peaceful family life, it also presented the rewarding challenge of grape growing.
The welcoming facade of The Dancing Fox Restaurant, Winery, and Brewery, a central hub in Downtown Lodi’s vibrant scene.
Lewis Vineyards, characterized by its rolling hills ranging from 90 to 120 feet in elevation, was initially planted in the late 1970s with varieties like Chenin Blanc. As market preferences shifted, the Lewises skillfully adapted, grafting and replanting with sought-after varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. They also embraced emerging grapes like Tempranillo, Grenache, and Sangiovese. Today, the vineyard boasts an impressive diversity of 12 cultivars, even including Roussanne and Marsanne, specifically planted to meet the demands of a prestigious Napa Valley winery.
The prominent Lewis Vineyards sign marking the entrance to the family-owned estate, a source of premium Lodi grapes for Dancing Fox Winery.
Like many Lodi grape growers, the Lewises supply their meticulously cultivated, LODI RULES certified sustainable grapes to wineries both large and small. Yet, a portion of their harvest was always destined for their own vision. Winemaking began humbly in their old barn, with family members contributing to grape stomping and manual pressing. This hands-on approach laid the foundation for Dancing Fox Winery, which officially opened its tasting room alongside the restaurant and bakery in 2009.
A tractor working the land at Lewis Vineyards in Lodi’s Clements Hills, illustrating the vineyard operations that underpin Dancing Fox wines.
Further expanding their winemaking capabilities, the Lewises acquired and meticulously restored Downtown Lodi’s historic Ice House shortly after launching their School Street location. Originally built in the 1880s as livery stables, the Ice House now serves as a dedicated space for winemaking and barrel aging. It also accommodates brewing tanks for beer production and a versatile bottling line for wines, beers, and even spirits. A pot still at the School Street location signifies Dancing Fox’s foray into spirits, producing brandies, vodkas, and gins. Ambitious expansion plans for the School Street site, temporarily paused due to the recent pandemic, are poised to further enhance the Dancing Fox experience.
The historic Lodi Ice House, now revitalized as The Dancing Fox’s winery and brewery, blending heritage with modern winemaking.
While Dancing Fox Winery offers a diverse portfolio of wines, including unique cherry wines, their Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon have truly emerged as standouts. These “Cabernet” grapes thrive in the Lewis Vineyards’ unique terroir – a reddish blend of clay, sand, gravel, and cobblestone found in the rolling Clements Hills.
Bottles of Dancing Fox Cabernet wines, showcasing the winery’s focus on varietal excellence from their estate vineyards.
The remarkable quality of these wines is undeniable. The 2017 The Dancing Fox Lewis Vineyards Lodi Cabernet Franc ($39) received a double-gold medal at the prestigious 2021 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. This accolade, signifying unanimous gold medal status from the judges, is a testament to its excellence. This Cabernet Franc is celebrated for its supple texture, vibrant red berry flavors, refreshing acidity, subtle French oak spice (from 50% new barrel aging), and refined tannins characteristic of the varietal.
Dancing Fox winemaker Gregg Lewis in the Ice House barrel room, overseeing the aging process that contributes to the wine’s quality.
Adding to the accolades, the 2017 Cinnabar Winery Lodi Cabernet Franc ($44), crafted from Lewis Vineyards grapes, was awarded “Best of Class” gold at the same competition, distinguishing it as the finest Cabernet Franc in the esteemed $40-and-up category. While sharing the supple texture of Dancing Fox’s 2017 Cabernet Franc, the Cinnabar expression exhibits a richer profile with deeper notes of both red and black berries, and a more pronounced oak spice influence. Notably, both wines are devoid of the green, herbaceous notes sometimes associated with Cabernet Franc, underscoring the suitability of Clements Hills-Lodi terroir for this varietal. The San Francisco Chronicle judges lauded the Cinnabar Cabernet Franc for its harmonious balance and expressive, fruit-forward character.
Gregg Lewis acknowledges the mentorship of Cinnabar Winery winemaker George Troquato, stating, “George has been a valuable mentor over the years, generously sharing his winemaking expertise. Cinnabar Winery, based in the Santa Cruz Mountains, has been a long-standing client, sourcing grapes from us since the early 1990s.”
Cabernet Sauvignon holds a special place in Gregg Lewis’s heart. “Our finest Cabernet Sauvignon,” Lewis notes, “likely comes from a 5-acre block planted a decade ago. Similar to our Cabernet Franc, clonal selection has been crucial – we chose two of the best clones available. In the vineyard, we implement meticulous practices to ensure premium quality, including leaf removal and fruit thinning to achieve a 3 to 4 tons per acre yield. This dedication allows us to command top prices for our fruit.”
Inside the Ice House: The Dancing Fox’s brewing tanks and bottling line, showcasing the winery’s diversified production capabilities.
The 2017 The Dancing Fox Lewis Vineyards Lodi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($48) lives up to its promise, delivering concentrated blackcurrant and berry aromas. Despite its depth, it maintains exceptional balance and finesse, avoiding any sense of heaviness or excessive oak. The tannins are firm, as expected from Cabernet Sauvignon, yet contribute to the wine’s overall structure and distinctly “Lodi” character.
“I must admit my fondness for Cabernet Sauvignon paired with a good steak,” Gregg Lewis confesses, “although as we age, steak is less frequently recommended. I believe indulging once or twice a month is perfectly acceptable!”
French oak barrels aging the 2019 Dancing Fox Cabernet Franc, highlighting the traditional winemaking techniques employed at the winery.
