Dancing Fox owner, grower, and winemaker Gregg Lewis with his award-winning Cabernet Franc vines in Lodi’s Clements Hills.
For those in the know in Lodi, The Dancing Fox has become a beloved local institution, constantly evolving and improving. Starting in 2009, in a beautifully renovated historic building on Downtown Lodi’s charming School Street, it quickly became the go-to spot for artisanal breads baked in a wood-fired oven, exceptional coffee, and delightful breakfast and lunch fare. This family-run establishment, primarily managed by Gregg and Colleen Lewis and their three sons, has always been more than just a restaurant and bakery.
For many, the depth of the Lewis family’s dedication remained somewhat hidden – their tireless work cultivating their hilltop vineyard since 1985, just outside of Clements. Gregg Lewis originally sought refuge in the peaceful Lodi area in 1980, seeking an escape from the hectic pace of Southern California‘s Orange County and a return to his profession as a psychologist. He soon met Colleen, and together they purchased a 50-acre property in Clements Hills-Lodi AVA, which included 48 acres of established vineyards. While they found the idyllic setting to raise their family, they also embraced the demanding work of grape farming.
The Dancing Fox Restaurant, Winery, and Brewery: A Downtown Lodi Destination.
Lewis Vineyards, nestled in the rolling hills with elevations ranging from 90 to 120 feet, was initially planted in the late 1970s with varieties like Chenin Blanc, which had declined in popularity by the time the Lewis family took ownership. Over the years, they diligently grafted and replanted with varieties now highly celebrated in Lodi, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. They also embraced “up-and-coming” grapes like Tempranillo, Grenache, and Sangiovese. Today, the vineyard boasts 12 different grape varieties, including recent additions of Roussanne and Marsanne, specifically planted to meet the needs of a prestigious Napa Valley winery.
Lewis Vineyards Sign: Home of Dancing Fox Wines.
Like many Lodi grape growers, the Lewises sell a significant portion of their LODI RULES for Sustainable Winegrowing certified grapes to wineries both large and small. However, they also began reserving a portion of their harvest to craft their own wines in their old barn. Family winemaking efforts started humbly, with their sons even stomping grapes and helping to operate a traditional wooden wine press. This passion eventually blossomed into Dancing Fox Winery and its tasting room, established at their restaurant and bakery location in 2009, bringing the fruits of Lewis Vineyards directly to the Lodi community.
Tractor in Lewis Vineyards, Clements Hills-Lodi: The Source of Dancing Fox Wines.
Further expanding their operations, the Lewises acquired and meticulously restored Downtown Lodi’s historic Ice House shortly after opening their School Street location. Originally built in the 1880s as livery stables, the Ice House now provides ample space for winemaking and barrel aging. It also accommodates numerous tanks for beer brewing and a versatile bottling line used for packaging their wines, beers, and even spirits. A pot still for The Dancing Fox’s burgeoning spirits business, which includes brandies, vodkas, and gins, is located at their School Street location. Aggressive expansion plans for the School Street site have been in place for the past couple of years, though, like many ventures, these have been temporarily paused due to the ongoing pandemic.
Lodi’s Historic Ice House: Home to Dancing Fox Winery and Brewery Operations.
While The Dancing Fox has produced a diverse range of wines and blends over the years, including unique wines made from local cherries, their Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon have truly become signature offerings. These “Cabernet” grapes thrive in the distinctive reddish soil of Lewis Vineyards, a blend of clay, sand, gravel, and cobble found in the rolling hills of the Clements Hills-Lodi appellation.
Dancing Fox Lodi Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon Bottles.
The exceptional quality of these wines has been consistently recognized. Most recently, the 2017 Dancing Fox Lewis Vineyards Lodi Cabernet Franc ($39) was awarded a double-gold medal at the prestigious 2021 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition in January. Double-gold signifies unanimous gold medal status from the judging panel at what is considered the largest competition of American wines globally. This Cabernet Franc is celebrated for its refined texture, vibrant red berry flavors, refreshing acidity, subtle French oak spice (from 50% new barrel aging), and the smooth, well-structured tannins characteristic of the varietal.
Dancing Fox Winemaker Gregg Lewis in the Ice House Barrel Room.
Adding to their accolades, the 2017 Cinnabar Winery Lodi Cabernet Franc ($44), crafted from Lewis Vineyards grapes, received a “Best of Class” gold medal at the same San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition. It was judged the best Cabernet Franc in the esteemed $40-and-up price category. While sharing the same supple texture as The Dancing Fox’s 2017 Cabernet Franc, the Cinnabar bottling exhibits a slightly richer profile with deeper notes of both red and black berries and a more pronounced oak spice influence. Notably, both wines are free from the green, herbaceous notes sometimes associated with Cabernet Franc, a testament to the suitability of Clements Hills-Lodi terroir for this varietal. Judges at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition lauded the Cinnabar Cabernet Franc for its balanced yet intensely aromatic and fruit-forward character.
Gregg Lewis notes, “Cinnabar winemaker George Troquato has been a valuable mentor to me over the years, generously sharing his winemaking expertise. Cinnabar Winery, based in the Santa Cruz Mountains, has been a valued client, purchasing grapes from us since the early 1990s.”
If Gregg Lewis has a particular passion, it may be for Cabernet Sauvignon. “Our best Cabernet Sauvignon,” he explains, “likely comes from a 5-acre block planted 10 years ago. As with our Cabernet Franc, clonal selection has been crucial – we chose two of the best clones available. In the vineyard, we implement meticulous practices to ensure top quality, including extensive leaf pulling and fruit thinning to achieve a yield of 3 to 4 tons per acre. This dedication allows us to command top prices for our fruit.”
Dancing Fox Brewing Tanks and Bottling Line in the Historic Ice House.
The 2017 Dancing Fox Lewis Vineyards Lodi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($48) lives up to its promise, delivering concentrated aromas of blackcurrant and berries. Yet, rather than being heavy or overly oaked, it presents itself with exceptional finesse and balance, despite the firm tannins inherent to Cabernet Sauvignon. These sensory characteristics are distinctly “Lodi,” reflecting the region’s unique expression of the varietal.
“I must admit to a fondness for Cabernet Sauvignon and a good steak,” Gregg Lewis confesses, “though as you get older, steak isn’t always recommended as part of your diet. I believe indulging once or twice a month won’t hurt!”
2019 Dancing Fox Cabernet Franc Aging in French Oak Barrels.
