Life often takes unexpected turns, leading us down paths we never imagined. For me, leaving a career in secondary education five years ago was one such turning point, unknowingly setting the stage for a fascinating journey into the world of Dancing Costumes. What began as a personal passion for sewing blossomed into crafting for others, exploring artistic exhibitions, and most rewarding of all, forging new connections through shared creative pursuits. This article is a direct result of one of those serendipitous connections.
Two years ago, my partner and I embarked on a Baltic cruise during a less crowded time of year, which happened to be themed around the popular TV show “Strictly Come Dancing”. It was on this cruise that I had the pleasure of meeting Theresa Hewlett, a pivotal figure in the creation of those dazzling dancing costumes we admire on screen. Theresa is the pattern cutter and alterations manager for “Strictly,” essentially the right hand to designer Vicky Gill. Initially, I was unaware of her crucial role. The ship showcased many costumes from the latest series, and Theresa provided us with captivating guided tours, revealing the intricate construction and stories behind each garment. As a sewing enthusiast, I was completely enthralled. It was an added delight to discover that we both had attended London College of Fashion, albeit in slightly different years.
This chance encounter remained a pleasant memory until several months later when I ventured into the world of Twitter and reconnected with Theresa. During “Strictly’s” season, she generously shares updates on costume progress and behind-the-scenes glimpses, always careful to keep major secrets under wraps!
Close-up detail of Joanne Clifton's sparkling dress, showcasing intricate stonework and design from the SCD Final 2016
Image showing the back detail of Joanne Clifton's dance dress, highlighting the flowing fabric and embellishments typical of ballroom dancing costumes.
Full view of Joanne Clifton's stunning show dance dress, emphasizing the overall impact and stage presence of a Strictly Come Dancing costume.
Intrigued, I arranged a visit to DSI-London, the company behind these spectacular dancing costumes. Located in Croydon, South London, DSI-London’s unassuming building in a quiet residential area belies the creative energy within. Stepping inside and ascending to the showroom, you enter a space where the world of ballroom and Latin dance comes to life. Here, customers can browse ready-to-wear dancewear essentials: practice attire, various styles of dance shoes, spray tan solutions, and even eyelashes. This area also serves as the fitting room for bespoke dancing costumes. During my visit, I had the privilege of observing fittings for two custom dresses being created for a young dancer who had travelled all the way from Ireland for this purpose, returning the same evening. It was fascinating to watch Theresa meticulously adjust, measure, and pin – always using safety pins, a crucial tip for securing wedding dress skirts, she noted! Theresa’s colleague Nina diligently recorded the client’s requirements, measurements, and often took photos, essential when clients cannot attend numerous fittings.
A rack of vibrant, custom-made couture dresses, displaying the variety and high-end craftsmanship of ballroom dance costumes.
Close-up on a selection of made-to-measure dance dresses, emphasizing the luxurious fabrics and detailed designs of couture dancewear.
A range of dance costume styles available, showcasing different silhouettes and designs in ballroom and Latin dance attire.
A cascade of colorful fringing, highlighting a key element in the dynamic movement and visual appeal of Latin dancing costumes.
A sophisticated men’s ballroom dance outfit, demonstrating the tailored elegance and specific design considerations for male dancers' attire.
A specialized 'body' garment, designed to ensure a seamless and tucked-in shirt look for male ballroom dancers, a practical element of dancewear.
An array of colorful fabrics, a glimpse into the vast selection available for creating custom dance costumes, showcasing the variety of textures and shades.
Another view of the fabric selection, emphasizing the richness and diversity of materials used in crafting high-quality dance costumes.
Custom-beaded ballroom dance shoes, highlighting the attention to detail and personalization in dance footwear, an essential part of a dancing costume.
A selection of stones for embellishment, showcasing the sparkling elements that add glamour and visual impact to ballroom and Latin dancing costumes.
Elegant dance shoes that could also be perfect for a wedding, suggesting the versatile and sophisticated style of some dance footwear.
Theresa generously guided me through the various departments within DSI-London. Their production extends beyond “Strictly” to include dancing costumes for “Dancing On Ice,” cruise ship shows, and numerous other performances worldwide. Ready-to-wear garments for these orders are cut and sewn in a separate workroom on the same floor. The men’s wear cutting room, along with the extensive fabric, haberdashery, and trim supplies, and the laundry room, are located downstairs.
Vicky Gill designs all the costumes, and Theresa translates these visions into made-to-measure patterns. These patterns then go to highly skilled cutters who prepare the fabrics, which are passed on to machinists. Remarkably, each machinist generally constructs an entire garment, and any alterations are returned to the original maker.
A machinist expertly working on a dance costume, showcasing the skilled labor involved in creating these intricate garments.
Close-up of sewing machines in the workroom, tools essential for crafting and altering dance costumes with precision and durability.
Another view of the bustling workroom, highlighting the organized chaos and creative atmosphere where dancing costumes come to life.
A focused machinist at work, emphasizing the concentration and expertise required to sew complex dance costume designs.
Garments in progress on mannequins, illustrating the various stages of construction and the use of mannequins for fitting and design assessment.
A rack of completed or near-completed dance costumes, showcasing the vibrant colors and dynamic designs ready for the dance floor.
Once a dress is assembled, a fitting, similar to the one I observed, ensures the perfect fit and skirt length. Any necessary adjustments are made by the machinist before the garment moves to the stoning department for embellishment, which might also include feather trims.
Close-up of intricate stoning work on a dance costume, showcasing the painstaking process of adding sparkle and detail.
Detailed view of hand-applied stones on a dance costume bodice, emphasizing the artistry and precision of embellishing dancewear.
Mannequins adorned with beaded dance costume elements, illustrating the scale and ongoing nature of the embellishment process within the workroom.
Feather boas being prepared for costume application, showing the hand-gluing process to create feather bunches for detailed trim work.
A dance costume design in progress, prior to the addition of embellishments, offering a glimpse into the foundational design before the sparkle is added.
The beautiful color palette of stones on a dance costume bodice, highlighting the artistry in color selection and arrangement for visual impact.
Mannequins in various stages of dress and padding are scattered throughout the studio. Machinists constantly use these to assess the drape and fit of the dancing costumes during creation, especially for fringe placement or embellishment. It’s interesting to note that every dress is built upon a leotard base, debunking any “no knickers” dress scandals that might arise after TV shows!
A client trying on a dance costume with a longer skirt, indicating customization and client-specific adjustments during the fitting process.
Close-up on the fabric of a dance costume skirt with large 'pailettes,' emphasizing the luxurious and eye-catching materials used in high-end dancewear.
Another view of a dance costume fitting, showing the collaborative process and attention to detail in ensuring a perfect fit for the dancer.
A dance costume undergoing alterations, demonstrating the adaptability and service life of these garments, even as styles and dancers' needs evolve.
DSI-London frequently sees dresses return for alterations. Fashion evolves, children grow, and bodies change. New skirts can be added, sleeves modified, and embellishments updated. Surprisingly, most dresses (excluding feathered ones) are machine washable – a fact I found incredible! A dedicated laundry area with dresses drip-drying confirms this. Industrial zigzag machines, rolled hem machines, and overlockers are the workhorses of the sewing process. Theresa explained the challenges of maintaining machine functionality when sewing through multiple layers of challenging materials, including feathers, crinoline, and sometimes even stones during alterations. (Heavy-duty domestic machines are used for on-site repairs at TV studios during live broadcasts.)
Many “Strictly” dancing costumes are hired out to international productions of the show. All costumes are also available for purchase on the DSI-London website, offering a chance to own a piece of television glamour. DSI-London also sells a wide array of specialist fabrics and trims, making it a go-to source for aspiring costume designers and dancewear creators.
Theresa Hewlett at work amidst rolls of zippers, highlighting her role and the vast inventory required for dance costume production.
My visit to DSI-London was truly enjoyable, and I extend my sincere thanks to Theresa and the welcoming team. Being back in a workroom environment, surrounded by creative energy, reminded me how much I miss being part of such a collaborative process. Whether crafting wedding dresses, as in my past, or dancing costumes, each role is vital in bringing these garments to life. The reality is far from glamorous – it’s hard work in a warm room, and the pressure is intense with live television deadlines every week for months, followed by “Dancing on Ice.”
DSI-London offers tours of their premises at various times throughout the year. Check their website to see when the next tours are scheduled. They are popular, so booking in advance is advisable.
Soon, the quiet hum of the workrooms will transform into a flurry of activity as the new “Strictly” series approaches. I’ll be thinking of the dedicated individuals I met as they create the stunning dancing costumes that will soon dazzle us on Saturday nights. For regular costume updates during the week, be sure to follow Theresa on Twitter.
Until next time,
Sue
