I’ve been fortunate to experience some truly iconic venues in my life. From the hallowed stage of the Grand Ole Opry to the legendary Sun Studio and even Johnny Cash’s boyhood home, these places resonate with history and musical spirit. Yet, among these cherished memories, a visit to a spot I stumbled upon quite by accident in Austin, Texas, back in June 2014 stands out just as vividly: The Broken Spoke Dance Hall.
It was the sheer authenticity of the Broken Spoke that struck me most profoundly. This wasn’t a tourist trap, a pre-packaged experience. I wasn’t there as an observer, but as someone seeking genuine relaxation and enjoyment on a Saturday night after a demanding work week at a Texas trade show.
My colleague and I had already explored Austin’s famed 6th Street, the self-proclaimed ‘Live Music Capital of the World.’ While entertaining, it lacked the ‘proper’ country music bar atmosphere I was yearning for. Being from the UK, my vision of a ‘proper’ country music bar was somewhat romanticized, perhaps, but when I mentioned this to a local at the exhibition, they immediately pointed me towards the Broken Spoke. I remain eternally grateful for that recommendation.
Broken Spoke roadside sign beckons visitors with its colorful and classic design
Nestled on South Lamar Boulevard, roughly three miles south of Austin’s bustling 6th Street, ‘The Spoke’ welcomes patrons five days a week, from Tuesday through Saturday. The vibrant roadside sign outside is an irresistible invitation – and what awaits inside is nothing short of a genuine Texas welcome.
Stepping through the doors is like stepping back in time, instantly immersing yourself in a ‘proper’ country music bar. A warm, friendly atmosphere envelops you, punctuated by the glow of neon signs, the inviting presence of a pool table and jukebox tucked in the corner, the comforting promise of chicken fried steak on the menu, and a weathered saddle hanging proudly on the wall. The Broken Spoke embodies the essence of a honky-tonk in sight, scent, and sound.
Inside the Broken Spoke Dance Hall showcasing its authentic honky-tonk atmosphere
The Broken Spoke’s story began in 1964 when the late James White, then a young 25-year-old fresh out of the army, opened it initially as a café. The name itself was born from White’s passions: the James Stewart western “Broken Arrow” and wagon wheels. Whether the latter was inspired by confectionery or actual wagon wheels, remains a charming mystery.
One thing was immediately clear: the Spoke’s jukebox, brimming with classics from Bob Wills, Ernest Tubb, and Ray Price, was an instant hit. Soon, patrons were dancing in the aisles. A champion of the local music scene, White started inviting local bands to play, initially for tips, but as the venue thrived, he began paying them. Pool tables were relocated to create more dance space, and two years later, seizing the growing popularity, White added a dedicated dance floor in the back, transforming a former lumberyard. Before long, legends whose music filled the jukebox – including Bob Wills and his Texas Playboys – graced the Broken Spoke stage in person.
Despite its name referencing something broken, White’s recipe of ‘down-home’ dining and dancing was a resounding success. Embracing the adage “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” James and his wife Annetta consciously preserved the Spoke’s original charm from 1966 onwards. This dedication solidified its well-deserved reputation as ‘the last true honky tonk in Texas.’
On the night of my visit, the jukebox was silent, allowing the captivating sounds of a talented folk duo performing in the corner to fill the air. My colleague and I settled at a table, quickly devouring a couple of plates of delicious chicken fried steak. As the dinner crowd grew, we moved to the bar, striking up a conversation with a fellow patron.
“What a fantastic place,” I remarked. “I’ve been searching for a real honky-tonk all week, and it seems I’ve finally struck gold.”
“More than that,” he replied with a knowing smile. “Dale Watson’s playing later. A true country singer – the best in the business. You couldn’t have picked a better night. This place will be packed.”
Looking around, while spacious, the Spoke didn’t seem capable of holding massive crowds.
“He’s playing in the dance hall out back,” he clarified. “I suggest you grab a seat while you still can.”
Completely captivated by the atmosphere, I hadn’t even noticed the doorway leading to the dance hall, or the intriguing ‘mini-museum’ tucked to the left.
Known as ‘The Tourist Trap,’ this museum is a treasure trove of music memorabilia, including a signed poster announcing George Strait’s debut performance at the Spoke on June 24th, 1982.
George Strait's signed poster from his first Broken Spoke performance in the Tourist Trap mini-museum
In his early career, George Strait and his band played the Spoke weekly for seven years. His affection for the venue is so deep that he featured a picture of it on the cover of his 2019 album “Honky Tonk Time Machine.”
While I wished I could have lingered longer in the museum, I was there for an authentic cowboy night out in the heart of Texas. And the Broken Spoke was certainly delivering.
“There’s a $12 cover charge,” announced the friendly woman at the dance hall entrance, dressed in classic boots and a checked blouse. “That’s for Dale Watson, and you can join the dance class that just started beforehand if you like.”
Patrons enjoying a classic Texas two-step dance class at the Broken Spoke Dance Hall
The first thing I noticed about the dance hall was its surprisingly low ceiling, a feature musicians often mention as enhancing the intimate atmosphere. The second was a gentleman standing on a chair, troubleshooting the air conditioning. It was James White himself. I hadn’t realized he was a Texas legend. Beyond being the owner of the Broken Spoke, he was a respected singer, having shared stages with icons like Willie Nelson, Asleep at the Wheel, and the Sons of the Pioneers.
James White exuded a genuine warmth and kindness. He reminded me of my own grandfather – polite, welcoming, and reassuring that the air conditioning would be fixed promptly. At the end of the night, he warmly shook my hand and happily posed for photos. One of those photos still serves as my Twitter profile background.
The author with James White, the legendary owner of the Broken Spoke, showcasing his friendly demeanor
But James’s friendliness was mirrored by his entire staff. From his daughter Terri, who led the dance class, to the bartenders and waitresses, everyone was incredibly welcoming.
Then Dale Watson took the stage. Words struggle to capture the brilliance of his performance. Thankfully, I captured some footage of Dale and his band performing “Freewheelin’.” This video, featuring Dale on guitar and vocals, Don Powlak on pedal steel, Chris Crepps on stand-up bass and backing vocals, and Mike Bernal on drums, showcases the magic of a night at the Broken Spoke. (Unfortunately, I cannot embed a video here but imagine the electrifying performance!)
Fantastic music, delicious food, cold beer, wonderful company, and a truly unique venue. The evening I spent at the Broken Spoke flew by. Even my colleague, not a die-hard country music fan, had a fantastic time. James White famously said that millionaires and ditch diggers alike could have a great time at the Broken Spoke. On Saturday, June 28th, 2014, I can wholeheartedly attest to that.
Take Five! Fascinating Facts About the Broken Spoke
-
Despite commanding huge appearance fees, Willie Nelson plays at the Broken Spoke for free. Why? Because in 1991, facing severe financial difficulties due to unpaid taxes, James White, a true friend, placed an empty gallon pickle jar on the bar, asking for donations to help Willie. This simple gesture made headlines and money poured in from regulars, soldiers, prisoners, and Native American reservations. A grateful Willie, with Kris Kristofferson, Joe Ely, and Alvin Crow, performed a legendary Broken Spoke concert that Christmas.
-
Beyond being “the last true honky tonk in Texas,” the Broken Spoke is often called “the country and western version of Cheers,” a testament to its welcoming and community-focused atmosphere.
-
Celebrities like Clint Eastwood, Robert Duvall, and Quentin Tarantino have frequented the Spoke. But perhaps its most iconic patron is Rowdy, a bandana-clad dummy who quietly sits at a restaurant table. Look closely at the photos; you might spot him! I enjoyed a twenty-minute conversation with Rowdy and can confirm he’s a wise and insightful conversationalist.
-
Musical superstars who have graced the Broken Spoke stage include Tex Ritter, Roy Acuff, The Chicks, Jerry Jeff Walker, Ernest Tubb, Grandpa Jones, and Garth Brooks. Dolly Parton even filmed scenes from her movie “Wild Texas Wind” at this iconic location.
-
Recognized for its cultural significance, the Broken Spoke received commendation from the Texas State Legislature for its exceptional service. Adding to its international acclaim, members of Queen Elizabeth II’s entourage visited in the 2010s and reportedly had an unforgettable time at this quintessential Texas honky tonk.
