New Zealand, for many, conjures images of breathtaking landscapes – and for good reason. Like countless others, the allure of its untouched natural beauty was the initial draw, fueled by stunning Instagram shots and cinematic inspiration. Before even landing, a preconceived notion of New Zealand’s wonders was firmly in place.
That changed dramatically upon arrival. Stepping off the plane after a long haul flight, the reality of New Zealand’s nature surpassed even the most idealized online portrayals. The vibrant green landscapes surrounding Auckland and the wonderfully undeveloped feel of the country were immediately striking. Exploring the North Island unveiled vast, untamed beaches and ancient forests that simply stole my breath away. Hiking the volcanic ridges of Mt Tarawera and finding a secluded, naturally heated creek near Rotorua created memories that will undoubtedly last a lifetime.
Yet, amidst these incredible natural experiences, something else resonated even deeper during my time in New Zealand. My journey was intertwined with Contiki’s Travel Project, a unique endeavor focused on creating a film that traced the origins of haka – the powerful Māori dance form, globally recognized through its association with the All Blacks, New Zealand’s national rugby team.
Haka’s impact is undeniable, often going viral online. The emotional haka that moved a bride to tears is a testament to its power. There’s an undeniable raw passion, an intense presence, and profound cultural weight within haka that transcends understanding of Māori culture, allowing you to feel it viscerally.
The first key insight is that haka is not monolithic. It’s a diverse art form with countless variations, unique to different tribal regions. While the All Blacks’ ‘Ka Mate’ haka is globally recognized, it merely scratches the surface of a much richer narrative.
Haka serves many purposes – welcoming honored guests, issuing challenges, narrating stories, expressing respect, or conveying deep affection. However, at its core, every haka embodies three fundamental elements deeply interwoven with Māoridom: a profound connection to the land, a powerful remembrance of ancestors, and an unwavering sense of community.
The Māori perspective on land stewardship was a truly transformative revelation. Unlike a Western concept of ownership, Māori view themselves as ‘kaitiaki’ – guardians of the land, entrusted with its care for future generations, respecting the interconnectedness of Ranginui (sky father) and Papatūānuku (earth mother). Tribal areas define responsibility, not possession.
This deep ‘whenua’, or connection to the land, is vividly expressed in haka. The powerful stamping of feet symbolizes Papatūānuku’s heartbeat, each stamp resonating with the earth’s energy. Performers tap into this grounding force, drawing strength from the land, not just as a visual backdrop, but as a living entity.
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This inherent respect for nature permeated every Māori individual encountered. These are people deeply attuned to their environment, possessing an intimate knowledge of weather patterns, bird calls, and the healing properties of native plants. Jamie Cook of the Ngāti Whātua-o-Ōrakei iwi, exemplifies this connection. He guided me through a remarkable 48-hectare regeneration project at Bastion Point in Auckland. Over fifteen years, this initiative has seen the planting of 200,000 native and edible trees, revitalizing the land to its pre-1800s state and welcoming back native birdlife. Sustainability is paramount; everything is reused or composted, and remarkably, the community maintains this space entirely without pesticides, safeguarding the surrounding waterways and ocean.
Ancestry and lineage are equally vital threads in the fabric of haka. While personal ancestry for many might stretch back a few generations, Māori trace their lineage back to the waka (canoes) that brought their ancestors to New Zealand. Those who have passed hold a significant place in Māori culture, and this profound respect for ancestry is the bedrock upon which cherished traditions have endured and remain integral to contemporary life.
Storytelling, in particular, has stood the test of time, preserving cultural knowledge across generations. Before European settlement, the Māori language was unwritten, making oral traditions – storytelling, song, dance, and carvings – the vessels of knowledge. These traditions are actively upheld to transmit wisdom and narratives to younger generations today.
Haka itself is a potent form of storytelling. Each performance pays homage to ancestors, and Māori children are immersed in haka from their earliest years. The gravity of haka is not lost on them; they deeply understand the words they speak and the heritage they embody.
Finally, connection – ‘whanaungatanga’ – is the unifying principle. Connection is not just an aspect of Māori culture; it is Māori culture. It’s the interwoven bond with the land, with the past, and with the present community. It’s tapping into the emotional, spiritual, and cultural depth of Māoridom, recognizing the inherent significance of all things.
Whether performed by the All Blacks, primary school children, or iwi leaders, haka is never an individual act. While performers are intensely focused, they are equally attuned to the collective energy, connected by an unseen force called ‘ihi’ – a surge of adrenaline unique to haka. This energy is palpable, almost tangible, as if haka transcends the physical realm, transporting performers to a space charged with anger, passion, honesty, and profound love. Witnessing numerous haka performances throughout my journey, its impact remained consistently powerful and deeply felt.
So, why does haka remain relevant? Because Māori culture remains vibrant and essential – not just relevant, but the very cultural backbone and beating heart of New Zealand. I arrived in New Zealand seeking scenic experiences, but I departed with a profound understanding of haka and its enduring power. Battles may have passed, but haka endures, a timeless embodiment of a culture that captures the hearts of all who visit Aotearoa, the land of the long white cloud.
I experienced New Zealand as part of The Travel Project, in partnership with Tourism New Zealand.
Special acknowledgements for their contributions to this project go to Beez Nga Rini Te Waati, Bill Mathews, Te Oranga Witehira, Inia Maxwell, and all those involved in the creation and execution of this film.
